New: Cthulhu Elder Sign Leather Dice Bags

Cthulhu Elder Sign leather dice bag.Just in at Awesome Dice — Cthulhu Elder Sign leather dice bags!

These are the same high quality genuine leather construction as the rest of our leather dice bags, but with a green foil stamped Elder Sign design on the bag, to keep your dice safe from the unfathomable machinations of Old Ones. With this dice bag, Great Cthulhu himself cannot steal your dice.

The Cthulhu dice bag is what we consider the perfect sized dice bag: about six inches tall by about 4.5 inches wide — capable of holding up to 50 dice, but still small enough to stuff into a jacket pocket. The dice bag comes with a leather draw cord, and that lovely new leather smell.

The Elder Sign Cthulhu leather dice bag is exclusive to Awesome Dice!

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Chainmail & Leather Dice Bags

Here at Awesome Dice we spend a lot of time trying to find not just the coolest dice to sell, but also the coolest dice bags — and in our humble opinion we have one of the best dice bag selections out there. But there have been two obvious things missing from the beginning: chainmail dice bags, and good old fashioned leather dice bags.

Happily, we have recently found solutions to our problems with both of these types of dice bags and we’re happy to announce we have both stainless steel chainmail dice bags for sale as well as a big selection of leather dice bags. We’re very happy to have these holes in our dice bag selection filled.

Chainmail Dice Bags

Chainmail dice bags have long been a favorite of D&D gamers: there’s nothing like carrying your dice in a bag that could actually withstand a slashing attack. Finding a reliable supplier of quality chainmail dice bags has been a heck of a problem though. And when we did find them, they were often cheap things made out of aluminum, and not steel.

Chainmail Dice Bag

If you’re going to get a chainmail dice bag, you want a stainless steel one. If you don’t care what it’s made of, well, then you probably don’t care that it’s chainmail in the first place. Happily we eventually found a good supplier that makes the chainmail dice bags themselves, and they are very high quality construction. We’re thrilled with them.

Leather Dice Bags

Leather dice bagsThe problem with leather dice bags wasn’t so much finding a supplier (well — some places did try to pass faux leather off as real, but they were the exception and that was usually Chinese import places), but rather finding a supplier that could get us quantities at decent prices. You would be shocked at how many places want to sell leather dice bags for forty to fifty bucks a bag.

In a bit of serendipity, we finally found a great leather shop (based in the US too) with good quality and great prices at right about the same time we found the chainmail bags. We were so pleased with the quality that we actually brought in a dozen different leather dice bags. This includes a bunch of different colors of foil stampings — they have a cool dragon design that is hot stamped into the leather. We also got red and purple suede dice bags — also real leather — that look just phenomenal.

As always, if you guys think there is anything that Awesome Dice is missing from the site, please let us know. We’ll do our best to get it, or at the very least let you know why we don’t carry it. And we are always working to expand our selection.

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20th Level Sucks: a 3.0 Adventure Failure Story

Recently I was talking with someone about the playstation 4 announcement, and the conversation twisted around from potential PS4 games to game design & philosophy to my recent first level characters suck post and about my problems with high level D&D games.

I promised him I’d post a follow-up about why I hated very high level D&D games so much, so here it is!

Once Upon a Time in 3.0…

I was working at FFG when D&D 3.0 hit and FFG hopped on the bandwagon to make some quick bucks off the unstoppable d20 money train. After dipping their toes in the water with some adventures, FFG leapt in with both feet, publishing a line of hardcover books and eventually getting into settings.

So during the heyday we had a couple of fulltime RPG developers. One of them was very excited when Dragon magazine published a 20th level adventure for 3.0 and his enthusiasm was infections. Before long he had a group of us rounded up to play in the adventure.

Our instructions were to create 20th level characters, and we were only allowed to use official WotC books for abilities and whatnot. (somewhat notably he did not allow us to use any FFG books).

So we set to it. Some people went hardcore with their min/maxing, while others of us spent far more time than we should have on our character background. Eventually we were ready to go.

epic D&DArt by 1mpact

Save or F***

Back when I was playing 2nd edition (first was a bit before my time) we would refer to certain abilities as “save or f**k” abilities, because if you failed your save, game over. Maybe you died, maybe you turned to stone. Even sleep was essentially a save or f**k because if you failed, you could easily have your throat cut.

As D&D progresses these abilities become more and more common. By the time you have a group of 20th level characters, we quickly learned, combat involves sitting around while your spellcasters slaughter everything in their path with DC 40 save or f**k spells. I was some kind of melee fighter, as I recall, and so like the other melee guy was mostly superfluous to the fighting.

natural-1For two encounters the spellcaster (shapechanged, flying, and invisible) laid waste to everything we encountered. Finally we moved on from waves of baddies to one super tough one, some kind of leviathan. This monster was so tough that he could only fail his save on a roll of 1. He had is own save or f**k ability that he used on the party, but we could only fail if we rolled a 1.

So the encounter was really just the monster and spellcasters trading off, waiting for the 5% chance that someone rolled a natural 1 on a saving throw, and then they’d die.

That was literally how combat was decided at that level. Whoever rolls a 1 first loses. Nothing else really matters, with all the healing and giant health pools.

After that encounter the DM stopped the game, though we were only halfway through, and vowed never to run high level D&D again.

I Haven’t Tried Again Either

Now to be fair, that was 3.0. I’m sure 3.5 wasn’t much different, but I have not even looked hard at very top level Pathfinder characters (which is what we play now) or 4th edition. I don’t know how those versions deal with the unbalanced scaling that has been with D&D from the beginning and that breaks the game at high levels.

Perhaps they found a way to fix things — but I know that save or f**k spells still exist, so I kind of doubt it. Either way, I’m a bit trepidatious to try and I’m planning my Pathfinder game to cap out with the characters hitting 12th level or so just to be safe.

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First Level Characters Suck

Ranger art by YamaO

My gaming group recently started a new Pathfinder campaign that I’m running, and as the characters started dinging 2nd level, I was quickly reminded once again how much 1st level characters suck. Certainly from a player point of view you tend to always be looking forward to the next level, the next feat, the next spell level or agility gain. But as a GM I’m just desperately looking for the characters to get the point where I can plan a challenging combat encounter without accidentally killing them.

The core problem with the first level characters is simply that they have so frickin few hitpoints. Even after just a few levels, their health starts to reach a point where good and bad attack rolls average out. But at first level, a simple encounter against a handful of CR 1/3 skeletons could kill them off if the dice turn against the party.

Don’t get me wrong, high level characters suck even worse. D&D simply breaks down at high levels, becomes a horribly designed nightmare of a game that ceases to function properly, but that’s a rant for another time.

Our group hung out at first level for a good 4-5 sessions, and every combat was a nightmare to design. The difference between laughably easy and TPK was a thin, thin line. But at second level a bit of magic happened, and all those encounter design problems went away.

2nd Level: the Biggest Gain in the Game

I was marveling at how much tougher the group was when I realized the simple reason: at no other level do characters gain in overall combat power more than 2nd level. I mean seriously — the characters are literally twice as powerful. They doubled in combat effectiveness. Even without 2nd level spells or extra feats, the group was suddenly a combat machine. Why, they could reliably take more than two hits without dying.

So I think in the future there will be no more first level campaigns. At the most they can start with first level characters for the first night, do a bunch of roleplaying, and then bump to 2nd level before they start putting themselves in danger.

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Chalkboard Gaming Table

Like many gaming groups, our game takes place on a crappy old kitchen table down in the basement gaming room. I was pondering the water-damaged surface one night and had a great idea — make the table surface into a chalkboard!

Chalkboard Gaming Table

They actually make chalkboard paint, which makes it incredibly easy to turn your gaming table into a chalkboard gaming table. The chalkboard surface is easily erasable with a chalkboard eraser, and you can always wipe it down with a damp cloth if you want to remove all traces of chalk.

We still use a battlemat for running D&D combat, but for looser combat systems, encounters where positioning is less crucial, and broad overviews (the city looks approximately like this, etc) the chalkboard surface works great. The gamers all love it ’cause they can can take notes on the edge of the table (or, in one case, denote the area of the table that belonged to them) for hit points, damage modifiers, etc. It’s also very popular for doodling.

And if you lean on the writing and get some chalk dust on your sleeve, it easily wipes off, unlike leaning on the battlemat and getting marker smeared on your work shirt. Soda spills wipe off easily (and wine spills, as we learned the first night we used it).

How to Do It

You can get chalkboard paint from your local hardware store in the paint section, or order it online. I used this stuff that I got from Home Depot, Rust-Oleum Chalkboard. It’s worth noting that you want to be sure to get latex-based paint for this (which this is).

Chalkboard paint

You’re also going to need a latex primer. I used some old gray primer I found stashed away under the stairs, but regular old white primer will work just fine.

  • Sand down the surface that you’re going to paint. Any kind of electric sander will really save your hide here. You need to sand the shiny finish completely off your gaming table. You’ll be able to easily feel the difference between the smooth shiny finished surface and your rougher bare wood sanded surface. Be aware that this will create tons of dust, so clear stuff out of the room first — or do like I did and toss a giant tarp over the table and do your sanding while crouching beneath the tarp.
  • Vacuum or wipe all the sawdust off the table. Then get a damp rag and wipe it down to clear more dust, then do it again. You really want to have all that sawdust gone before you paint.
  • Let the table dry off from your washing — this shouldn’t take long.
  • Paint the table with a latex primer. This is important — you need to prime the bare wood before putting the chalkboard paint on. You can use a brush or a napless roller for this. Let the primer dry for a couple hours.
  • Paint with chalkboard paint. I found that even the napless roller left a texture I didn’t like, so I ended up painting with a brush. Put it on thick — don’t let anything clump or pool, of course, but don’t paint it out all thinly.
  • Use three coats. At least, this is what I did, to ensure I had a nice thick surface. You have to wait a good four hours between coats, so this is most likely a project that will take a couple of days (but only 10 minutes a coat).
  • Let it dry. Once you have your three coats on, you need to restrain your enthusiasm and let the paint dry for a long time. The can recommends several days, and further suggests that you shouldn’t wet it for 7 days after painting. This makes this a good project to do in between weekly gaming sessions, provided you can rip it out the day after gaming.

The longest part of this was the sanding and dust cleanup, which took me around a half hour. Otherwise the painting was about 5-10 minutes per coat.

It’s worth noting that you may want to very lightly sand the finished surface with some kind of very fine sanding cloth if you want a smoother surface. I did not do this and the surface is a bit rough — but it works perfectly fine for our purposes and I’m probably not going to do anything more to make it smoother.

You can usually get chalk at your local big box grocery store — they have it in the kids school supply section and it’s dirt cheap. You can, of course, also order it online — which is what I had to do to get my chalkboard eraser.

All in all I’m loving the chalkboard gaming table. If any of you try out the same thing, let me know how it works out!

Chalkboard gaming table closeup

The chalkboard gaming table as it looks after our last game.

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New World’s Oldest d20: Egyptian d20

Almost 10 years ago an ancient Roman d20 was found dating from 100 AD. This totally awesome 20-sided die sold at auction at Christie’s for $17,925 and at the time was the oldest d20 ever found.

Well — move over Romans, the Egyptians now take the title for the oldest d20 with this awesome ancient d20 dated from 300 to 30 BC, from the Egyptian Ptolmaic period. This sweet die is now housed in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, and has apparently been there since 1910 without any gamer knowing.

World's oldest d20

According to the Metropolitan Museum of Art this die was collected between 1883 and 1906 from a missionary in Egypt and is a part of their Egyptian Art collection. We can only speculate on what the die was used for, but it certainly looks incredibly cool. The Egyptian d20 is carved from serpentine rock.

Many thanks to Geekologie for the heads up, and we have updated the History of Dice to include this piece as the world’s oldest d20.

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Dice Rolling Without Dice: iPhone & Android Apps

While we think nothing actually compares with physically rolling dice, from time to time you find yourself caught without your dice on hand. Maybe you forgot them in the rush to make it to the game on time, or maybe you got into a pickup game on the spur of the moment and don’t have your dice with you.

If you have access to a computer, you can always use a virtual dice roller on a website — including our WordPress dice roller plugin (which you can play with over on the lower right sidebar). Just go to the website from your laptop or smartphone and roll away. It’s not nearly as satisfying as rolling dice, but on the bright site the virtual roller will often do some of the math for you.

However, in the age of the iPhone or Android smartphone, sometimes using an app is easier than going to a website. With that in mind I’ve been digging through dice rolling apps and I finally settled on Dice Shaker D&D as my favorite dice rolling app. The app has awesome graphics and physics of the dice actually rolling. You can customize the color of the dice, the background of the rolling surface, and of course can roll any number of dice. You can see the dice results and the app will automatically total the dice for you. Here’s a video of it in action:

One of the things I really like about this app is that you can create 5 different rolling surfaces — each with its own background and dice — and easily switch between them. This means you can easily save dice pools in different places and just flick back and forth. One surface for your attack, another for your damage with one weapon, a third with damage for another, etc.

The app does not do any kind of factoring of bonuses or special calculations for various games — thus if you’re looking for a dice rolling app specifically for World of Darkness games or Earthdawn, you’re probably better off searching for an app built just for that game (which I have not yet done — but I have to assume they’re out there, especially for Android which has a lot more apps). I do not, alas, have any kind of tablet, so I was not able to dig through or test tablet apps — if anyone has a suggestion for tablet apps, please leave ‘em in the comments!

Of course, while the dice rolling app is a great solution to use in a pinch (and kind of fun to play with for a while), it’s just not gaming without dice. Nothing can quite match the fun and irrational sense of control of actually rolling your dice at the gaming table.

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Dragonscale Dice Bags Back In Stock

Good news everybody — the dragonscale dice bags are back in stock! We blew out of all of them in what was apparently an orgy of pre-GenCon preparation. And I have to say I understand the desire to have the coolest gaming gear at the con, and they are after all the coolest dice bags in the world.

Since then we’ve been getting a ton of emails asking when the bags would be back in stock, so I thought I’d let everyone know. The dragonscale dice bags are made by hand, which is why it takes so long to get them back in stock, though we’re trying to get our hands on more so we don’t have to be out of stock for nearly a month next time.

It’s also worth noting that in addition to the current selections we also have small black dragonscale dice bags coming in within a few days. If you haven’t seen ‘em yet, check them out:

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d20 Dice Randomness Test: Chessex vs GameScience

Do Your Dice Roll True?

The founder of GameScience, Lou Zocchi, has long claimed that GameScience dice roll more true than other gaming dice. In a well-known GenCon video Zocchi explained why GameScience dice should roll more true.

His logic is that due to how dice are made, traditional RPG dice are actually put through a process similar to a rock tumbler as part of the painting and polishing, and this process  causes the dice to have rounded edges. In theory the uneven rounding gives the dice an inconsistent shape that favors certain sides. GameScience dice are not put through this process, which is why they retain their sharp edges and is also why their dice come uninked.

While Zocchi’s makes a good argument about egg-shaped d20s, what was lacking was any kind of actual testing of how the dice roll. Nowhere were we able to find any tests of d20s — either GameScience or traditional d20s — to determine whether or not they roll true. As giant fans of dice and an impartial third party, we decided to run a test ourselves and see just how randomly RPG d20s really roll.

We pitted GameScience precision dice against Chessex dice (the largest RPG dice manufacturer) to see what science has to say.

Test dice condenders

Methodology

For the principle test we used one Chessex d20 and one GameScience d20, both brand new right out of the packaging. The GameScience d20 was inked with a Sharpe to make it easier to read the results, but the dice were not modified in any other way.

The dice were rolled by hand on a battlemat on a level table. For this experiment the dice were rolled on the surface for at least two feet and had to bounce off a flat backstop before coming to rest. This is similar to the requirements of craps tables in casinos. Our logic is that if this method successfully prevents cheating with six-sided dice, it will more than suffice for d20 dice being rolled without any intent to alter the results. (Since casinos are not losing money on gambling, we assume they know what they’re doing).

Each die was rolled 10,000 times, and the results recorded.

Test Results

After an insane amount of dice rolling, here is a quick look at the results for each die:

d20 dice randomness test results

A casual analysis of the results suggests that neither die is rolling randomly.

If we had a d20 that rolled perfectly, each face would come up 500 times. But of course randomness isn’t perfect and we’d expect some deviation: over the course of 10,000 rolls we’d expect, with 85% confidence, that each face would be within about 33 of 500 — so anywhere from 467 to 533 is within the bounds of randomness. (At 95% confidence the margin of error is 45). Neither die falls within these bounds.

The Chessex d20 had a standard deviation of 78.04, and the GameScience d20 had a standard deviation of 60.89.

While neither die rolled true, it’s certain that the Chessex die rolled less true, with a greater degree of deviation from the expected range across more of the dice faces. Interestingly, the GameScience die actually rolled very close to true except for the number 14 which rolled vastly less often than it should have, farther off than any face of the Chessex d20. Applying the results to a Chi Squared test also confirms that neither die is rolling randomly (even if you ignore the 14/7 on the GameScience die).

GameScience d20 flash

Closeup of the flash where the GameScience d20 is removed from the mold. Click to Embiggen.

GameScience 14 Theory:
We have a theory as to why the 14 rolled so infrequently on the GameScience d20. Every GameScience die has a small chunk of plastic that sticks out of one face. This flashing is from where the die was removed from the mold. It occurs on all dice, but in Chessex dice this flashing is removed in the polishing process.

On GameScience 20-sided dice this flashing is on the 7 face — directly opposite the 14.

It seems likely that it is more difficult for the d20 to land on the face with the flashing sticking out, pushing the GameScience die off that face. In other words, this flashing makes the 14 roll far less often than it should. Since the flashing position is set from the mold, all GameScience d20s should have the flash in the same position (and all in our inventory do).

Some Confirmation

Since this test was simply one d20 from both manufacturers, it’s possible we just happened to choose the only Chessex d20 that didn’t roll true, and the only GameScience d20 that rolled far fewer 14s. As a check on our results we took another new d20 from both Chessex and GameScience and rolled each under the same conditions.

After 1,600 rolls the same pattern emerged (incidentally, the standard deviation after 1,600 rolls was almost identical to the 10,000 roll test). The Chessex d20 still had more deviation from expected than GameScience, and the GameScience d20 rolled massively fewer 14 results. Both dice still rolled sufficiently out of true to be beyond the margin of error. So this quick (well, not so quick) double check is some confirmation of the 10,000 roll test.

So Which Dice Are Better?

It’s worth stressing that based on our tests you would need a lot of dice rolls before you saw a meaningful difference in any of these gaming dice — roll a thousand times and maybe you’ll see 5 or 10 less of a given number than you’d expect (or more). So for gaming purposes both dice will work just fine. Seriously.

But that said Chessex dice (and in theory any rounded-edged dice) are going to roll less close to true. Because of the randomness of the process that changes the shape of the dice, there’s no way to predict which faces are going to roll better or worse. Indeed this means that you could have dice that are “lucky” and roll high more often or crit more often, and “cursed” dice that seldom roll 20s and fumble more often.

With GameScience dice, on the other hand, you know that the 14 will roll substantially less than any other result — so technically the dice will roll low, but the 20 should roll just about as often as the one, or the 10. If you carefully sand the flashing down on the GameScience dice you should get a result that is very close to being truly random.

Raw Data

Here is all of the data from the 10,000 roll test, so anyone who wants can subject the numbers to their own statistical analysis. We’re including in here the percentage that the rolls of any given number deviate from the expected number of 500 per face.

Chessex d20

Number  Qty Rolled   Deviation from Expected
1 395 21.00%
2 417 16.60%
3 576 13.19%
4 567 11.82%
5 488 2.40%
6 622 19.61%
7 396 20.80%
8 443 11.40%
9 542 7.75%
10 581 13.94%
11 544 8.09%
12 554 9.75%
13 399 20.20%
14 411 17.80%
15 562 11.03%
16 593 15.68%
17 561 10.87%
18 558 10.39%
19 383 23.40%
20 408 18.40%

 

GameScience d20

Number   Qty Rolled   Deviation from Expected
1 508 1.57%
2 564 11.35%
3 496 0.80%
4 532 6.02%
5 488 2.40%
6 492 1.60%
7 503 0.60%
8 580 13.79%
9 474 5.20%
10 555 9.91%
11 533 6.19
12 486 2.80%
13 463 7.40%
14 295 41.00%
15 491 1.80%
16 499 0.20%
17 443 11.40%
18 602 16.94%
19 522 4.21%
20 474 5.20%

 

This is Just One Test

In the world of science, this is just one very small test. To have relatively certain results we’d need to replicate this test across many different Chessex and GameScience dice — if anyone is interested in running their own test to corroborate or contradict our results, we would love to hear about it!

Once our wrists recover from all the rolling, we may consider a second test ourselves — specifically to confirm the theory that the flash on the GameScience die is what is causing the 14 to roll so low: we want to carefully sand the flash down and retest the same die to see if it then rolls more true.

Disclaimer: we have made every effort to ensure that our testing methodology was as fair and accurate as possible; however, without much more testing we cannot say with certainty whether one kind of dice roll better or worse.

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Dice Trophy

The topic of gaming trophies comes up among my gaming group more often than you would think. We have our own little local Iron DM tournament every year, and one of our members helps run the Cthulhu Masters tournament at GenCon, as well as Novos Ordo Seclorum. When I was at FFG I was in charge of getting the Dragonstar RPGA events started and organized. So the topic comes up.

We talk a lot about what kind of prize is suitable for the winners of a role-playing tournament. The discussion usually begins with the idea that RPG games don’t need a trophy, that we’re in it for the fun and if you’re going to win anything some kind of gaming product is better. But we’ve also observed that any kind of RPG tournament with a trophy gets the most interest (Cthulhu Masters vs Novos, for example), or failing that whichever has the biggest prize.

Quest for a Trophy

A situation came up recently for which we wanted to get a trophy, only to discover that we literally couldn’t any kind of gaming-themed trophy anywhere. As far as we can determine, these just aren’t made. Thus if we really wanted a trophy with some dice on it, we’d clearly have to make it ourselves!

For this particular trophy, we were doing a board game theme so we wanted to focus on d6s. We went to a local trophy store (which was a nightmare to deal with by the way — just order one online and save yourself the hassle) and got a generic trophy with cups on it. We then unscrewed the cups to make room for our dice.

Gaming dice trophyNow, if we were using a d20 for the trophy, life would be simple. We could just grab the giant foam d20, then paint it gold, and shunk it onto the post that the little plastic cup was screwed into — possibly also grabbing a washer and nut to hold the post in place (these posts are what hold the trophy layers together). But since we don’t have any foam d6 dice life got more difficult (and those foam d6s tend to have squared corners and no indents for the numbers so we wouldn’t want them anyway).

We grabbed a giant 75mm d6 from my collection (alas, these are no longer manufactured) for the top and two 47mm d6 for the side pillars. We clamped the dice into the drill press table and set it at an angle so we could drill directly into the corner of the dice. This is harder than it sounds. We then added threads to the holes with a tap kit, and found some threaded posts of the same diameter and thread as the originals so they could stick further into very heavy dice.

With the dice all prepped, we spray painted them metallic gold (spray one half, let it try for a day, spray the other half, dry for another day) and screwed them into the trophy with some epoxy. As a final touch we grabbed a tiny gold 7-dice set and superglued it around the base.

The final trophy is pictured here — it’s actually pretty ridiculously heavy and quite top-heavy, but it looks awesome. If we decide to make another in the future for a RPG award we’ll probably ignore the two side dice and just use the foam d20 on the top, which would be much easier and faster to put together. Anything to keep us away from the drill press calculations again.

Close-up of the gold-plated mini dice on the base of the trophy.

New TableTop Trophy?

The purpose of the trophy? We decided to make it for the awesome Wil Wheaton show on Geek & Sundry, TableTop, which is a great demonstration of why table top games are so much fun. If you haven’t seen it yet, you should absolutely check it out. When we first saw the show we were understandably huge fans, but we thought the little cheerleading trophy for the victors wasn’t awesome enough for gamers, which is what finally motivated us to build the gaming trophy.

Of course, since then the cheerleading trophy has grown into a thing, but we went ahead and tossed this trophy into the mail and shipped it off to Geek & Sundry’s TableTop division just in case they wanted to use our version!

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